Rice.

"A bowl of rice is like a good woman...simple, elegant and soul satisfying.  Occasionally curious, we might be tempted to try something different such as noodles or bread...  But you know, a wise man always comes back to his bowl of rice." 

--Ironic quote from my boyfriend 30 years ago, who is now my husband of 25 years.

Behind corn and wheat, rice is the world's third largest crop, feeding about two thirds of the world's population.  In Asia, white rice is used as an anchor for daily meals, either as a starchy filler or to balance out savory protein and vegetable dishes.  Traditionally, in poorer regions of the world, rice is eaten is sizable amounts with salty side dishes as a way to stretch meals to feed many hungry mouths.  However, it can also be used as a key ingredient for special dishes such as fried rice, rice cakes and rice soups.  Rather than simply boiling or steaming rice, some cook rice in chicken stock, add herbs and spices, or add coconut milk, butter, fat or oils for richness.

How and when rice is eaten reflects different regions, cultures and traditional influences.  For example, in North Vietnam which is closest to China, rice is eaten at the end of meals as a palate cleanser.  In the South, rice is eaten right along with each course.  There are hundreds of rice varieties, such as jasmin, basmati, kokoho rice; long, medium or short grains; new crop, fermented or sticky rice.

When I got married, my mother told me to "always keep three things stocked and ready:  a broom, some salt and RICE!"  Mother also said that if I couldn't keep a tidy house, or know how to cook well....at the very least, I should know how to make a pot of steamed rice.  From a woman who never uses recipes when cooking, the following is my mom's fool proof method of measuring and making "Perfect Rice" everytime....

Perfect Rice
If you have a rice cooker, using it will make your efforts easier...if not, you'll need a heavy medium-large pot with a tight lid.  After measuring raw long-grain rice into the pot, wash and rinse grains a couple of times to remove any dirt and excess starch.  *Position you finger pointing down with the tip lightly touching top of leveled rice, and gently add enough fresh water to reach the first knuckle joint line.

Bring the pot of raw rice and water to a boil over medium high heat.  Cover the pan with lid, thus trapping all the accumulated steam and continue to boil for about 5 minutes, or until small holes and craters appear on top of rice and most of the water is absorbed into rice.  With either a pair of chopsticks or a spatula, carefully stir and fold from the bottom up to loosen grains.  Immediately reduce heat to low, and continue to cook for another 20 minutes.

Finally, without removing the lid, take pot off of heat and allow to rest for additional 15-20 minutes.  Again with chopsticks or spatula, carefully stir and fluff the rice before serving.

*If you don't trust your finger length, feel free to use the following exact amounts of long-grain rice and water.
1 cup rice, to 1 3/4 cups water
2 cups rice, to 3 1/4 cups water
3 cups rice, to 4 cups water

Fried Rice
The secret to making great fried rice is to prep all your ingredients first and have them ready.  Maintain rice as the star ingredient by making sure meats and vegetables are uniformly cut into small dices.  As always, taste and adjust seasoning to your liking before serving.

1/4 cup of vegetable oil
2 eggs lightly beaten
2 shallots, chopped
2 tablespoons minced ginger
1/4 pound of cooked small shrimp; and/or 1/4" diced chicken, portuguese sausage, ham or spam
3/4 cup cubed fresh pineapple or diced mixed vegetables (optional)
Salt and pepper
4 cups cold, cooked rice
3 green onions, sliced
4 teaspoons soy sauce or fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)


Heat 2 teaspoon of oil in wok or large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add the eggs and cook, stirring until set.  Remove from pan, rough chop and set aside.

Heat another 2 teaspoon of oil to pan over high heat.  Add shallots, ginger, meats, pineapples and/or vegetables and cook until lightly browned, about 3-5 minutes.  Taste and season with salt and pepper.  Add remaining oil and cooked rice, stir frying for another 7 minutes or until nicely colored.  Return eggs to skillet and sprinkle with green onions.

One more time, taste and adjust seasoning with soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, salt and pepper if necessary.

Yes I said I couldn't eat another bite, but....

In my small hometown, we have one of the best kept secrets in the Bay Area.  We have this little hole in the wall Sicilian restaurant where the chef/owner brilliantly produces some of the best homemade pasta and fresh seafood.  Chef Toto’s food is so simple and elegant that we just eat, and eat…and EAT…not realizing until it’s too late that we are beyond stuffed.

Tonight we were so full, that I insisted I couldn’t eat another bite and passed on the dessert menu.  Toto's cousin heard what I said but he didn't care.  That naughty man went into the kitchen and came back with a smirk and ONE small poached apple.  He gestured to for me to keep it as a secret because he had made a batch just for the staff to enjoy.  Natalia said, "I'm not a good cook, but please just taste."  

Oh my goodness, it was perfect!   I ate the whole thing and asked for more.  He claimed there was no more, so I asked him how?  Natalia handed me a fresh picked heirloom apple and pointed to a generous stash of alcohol.  Enough said.  

Boozed Apples

Red Wine, Port and Brandy Poached Apples
Look for regional and heirloom apple varieties at farmers' markets and specialty grocers.  Here, I used honey crisp red sweet tart apple.  You can also substitute pears, but I recommend you try apples first.  Note this is a subtly sweet dessert recipe, so feel free to add more sugar to your taste.

2 cups dry red wine, port or combination of both

¼ Brandy
2 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean
12 small tart firm apples, peeled with stems attached
crème fraîche or whipped cream, for serving

In a large saucepan, combine wine(s), brandy water, sugar, and vanilla.  Bring to a boil. Once sugar is dissolved, add apples. Reduce to a simmer.  Check after 20 minutes and cook until apples are knife tender.

Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove apples to a plate. Remove vanilla bean. Bring poaching liquid to a boil, lower to a simmer and cook until syrupy and reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes.

Divide reduction sauce among serving plates, place apple on each plate, and dollop each with crème fraîche. 

My Chicken Pho Adventure...

What's the best thing about having fabulous cooks in the family?  They know how.

What's the worst thing about having fabulous cooks in the family??  ...Again, they know how.

Truth is, the hardest part about making a great pot of chicken pho is that it's time consuming if you're hell bent on making it from scratch.  Since ingredients are not expensive, it also doesn't make much sense to produce only a small batch of broth ...i.e. this recipe makes enough for 6-8 generous servings.  That said, I bravely invited my mother, my mother-in-law, my cousins and my husband to taste test.  

As you can image, we literally had four alpha females hoovering over one gently simmering pho pot.  What made the meal really "interesting" is that  my family is from South Vietnam, while my husband's family from the North.  Pho is a northern dish specialty, but that didn't stop both families from having a civil war reenactment at the dinner table.  My family literally sat on our own side, facing their counterparts.  Equally contrasting and divided were condiments of choice, and the proper noodle-to-broth ratio was a heated debate.  

A less confident cook might have broken down, but I knew what I was doing by inviting these pho aficionados.  In the end we all won!  I learned to make a great pot of chicken pho....that managed to satisfy both sides of the Vietnamese culinary argument.  I now have making homemade pho out of my system.  Better yet, my husband's craving for chicken noodle soup was satisfied.  Here's my recipe...enjoy! 

Chicken Pho Soup
Chicken pho is a lighter spiced broth than the beef version, and the following recipe produces a perfect compliment for the poached chicken and noodles.  After the initial boil, turn down the heat and don't be tempted to rush the process; a slow simmer is important for creating a clear rich broth.  If possible make broth a day ahead, strain, cool and refrigerate overnight.  Reheat when ready to proceed  with serving.

2 unpeeled yellow onions, washed and cut in half

3 unpeeled shallots, washed

3 2-inch knobs unpeeled ginger, smashed

1 stick of cinnamon

6 star anise pods

4 cardamon pods (optional)

6 quarts cold water 

2 lbs chicken necks or chicken wings

One 4-5-pound chicken, quartered

1 ½ tablespoon salt

1 ½ tablespoon sugar

1/3 cup Asian fish sauce, or to taste

1 pound dried rice noodles

3 scallion, thinly sliced

half a white onion, thinly sliced

handful of cilantro, chopped

Have the following at the table as condiments: 

1 pound mung bean sprouts

1/2 cup torn basil leaves

2 limes, cut into wedges

2 jalapeños, thinly sliced

Asian hoisin sauce 

Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce 

Preheat the oven to 400°.  Wrap a cookie sheet with foil paper and lightly coat with non-stick spray.  Put the onions cut side down, shallots and ginger on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, or until softened and lightly browned. 

Meanwhile in a small saucepan, dry fry the cinnamon, star anise pods and cardamom (if using) in a pan with no oil to release their fragrance.  Wrap spices in double cheese cloth. 

Fill a large stockpot with cold fresh water and bring to a boil.  Add the roasted vegetables, spice package, chicken bones, quartered chicken, salt and sugar and bring to a boil.  Immediately lower heat to simmer and cook for 30 minutes, occasionally skimming away foam and impurities that surfaces.  Carefully remove chicken breast from broth, pierce to see if juices run clear and allow to cool completely.  Cover and refrigerate meat until needed.   

Continue to simmer broth for 2 hours longer.  Remove the dark meat, bones and vegetables from broth.  Carefully strain broth into a clean large soup pot and cook over medium high heat until slightly reduced.  Stir in the fish sauce and adjust seasoning if necessary. 

Prep for assembly:  Put a large pot of water on stove over high heat for noodles.  Once water is boiled, add dried noodles and cook as directed on package.  Drain well and divide amongst SIX serving bowls.  Top with pieces of dark meat torn of the bones and ½ inch slices of white breast meat; sliced green onions, white onions and chopped cilantro. 

Ladle the broth and chicken over the noodles and serve.   

"What the pho?! ...How can you be out of chicken?"

For the past three days straight, hovering clouds and damp weather has put my husband in the mood… for “pho” …chicken pho to be specific.  Tuesday night, I opted for takeout from my favorite pho house in downtown…by seven o’clock they had already ran out of chicken pho, chicken porridge, chicken salad….and all things chicken.  Wednesday night, we went to a different restaurant, which advertises that they specialize in chicken pho.  Neither of us ended up finishing our bowls because the broth lacked flavor and they used too much MSG.

So tonight, I’m going to make my own pot of Chicken Pho for the first time.  Just please don’t tell my mom because she would never believe that I could pull off an authentic version.  Understandable given my mother makes the best home made chicken noodle soup!  Hands down, no contest.  But I will respectfully try to match her genius.

To me, a perfect pho is a one bowl wonder and soul satisfying.  Pho can be consumed for breakfast, lunch, dinner or late night snack.   This famous soup from Hanoi can be made with beef, chicken, seafood…or made as vegetarian.  It can also be a served as soup, or deconstructed as a tossed noodle salad with broth on the side.  The key to any pho is an excellent broth.  Here’s what I always look for with Chicken Pho: 

• clear rich chicken broth made from scratch --with a balance of toasted cinnamon, ginger, star anise, parsnip and roasted sweet onions
• no MSG
• moist poached chicken meat
• pho rice noodles that are tender blanched and not stuck together.

--Now I'm off to buy chickens, wish me luck!  Results will be posted.

Lazy Sunday Supper, with Lemongrass Chili Chicken and Raw Kale Salad

I don’t know about you, but autumn Sundays make me both nostalgic and lazy.  The cooler weather and shorter days has me curled up on the couch, aimlessly switching between morning cooking shows and Sunday football with hubby.  As comfortable as I am, I’m missing my daughter --who now lives in Los Angeles, and my son --who is away at college in New York.  Truth be said, I also miss my mommy…and being a young child myself!  Since my fondest family moments are always attached to a favorite meal…yes, you know it…I’m getting hungry and am craving a taste from those days gone by.

Once upon a time, as my brothers and I sat at the dinner table doing our weekend homework, my mother pulled together a lazy Sunday supper with Lemongrass Chili Chicken (Ga Xao Sa Ot), steamed white rice and simple greens.  Likewise with my own kids, this has also been one of their most requested go-to meals, though I admit the Raw Kale Salad is a recent European inspired twist on healthy leafy greens.  --Now, go pull out that rice cooker!!

• Lemongrass Chili Chicken 

 Aromatic chicken in a savory caramel sauce --simple, homey and healthy.  Enough said.
 

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tablespoon mild curry powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 ½ teaspoons sugar

1 ½ pounds boneless chicken thighs cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 

2 lemongrass stalks, tender bottom third white portion only, sliced

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

3-4 serrano chili peppers, sliced on diagonal

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons water 

3 tablespoons canola oil

extra splash of fish sauce in the end (optional)

small handful of cilantro, washed and rough cut

  

In a bowl, combine the fish sauce, garlic, curry powder, salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the sugar.  Add the chicken to coat and let stand 10-15 minutes.  Meanwhile in a small food processor, pulse lemongrass to finely mince.  Add shallot and serrano chili and pulse a couple of more quick times to combine.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons sugar with 1 tablespoon water in large skillet over medium high heat.   As sugar begins to dissolve, tip pan to swirl until a deep golden caramel forms.  Add extra tablespoon of water and swirl pan to mix. 

Remove pan from heat and carefully add oil.   Turn up heat to high.  Add the lemon­grass, shallot and chili and fry for about 1 minute.  Add the chicken and stir-fry, lowering heat to medium high and brown all sides until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is slightly thickened, about 8 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl and top with the cilantro. 

Raw Kale Salad

1/3 sweet baguette loaf, thinly sliced or torn and brushed with extra virgin olive oil

1 bunch kale (dino, black or lacinato)

1/garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

¼ cup grated parmesan or pecorino cheese, plus additional for garnish

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for garnish

juice of one large lemon (roughly 1/4 cup)

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
coarse ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.   Arrange bread sliced in a single layer on a cookie sheet and toast until gold brown, checking on them after 8 minutes.  Remove from oven to cool.  If you want something more rustic, roughly break up the slices.

Meanwhile thoroughly wash and dry kale, trim off stem bottoms.  Working in batches, stack kale leaves and slice into ¼-½ inch ribbons.  You should end up with roughly 4 to 5 cups.   Place in salad bowl.

Using a small food processor, or small bowl, combine or smash garlic and ¼ teaspoon of salt into a paste.  Add ¼ cup cheese, 3 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, pinch of salt, pepper flakes, and black pepper and mix well.  Pour the dressing over the kale and toss very well and evenly coat kale. 

Allow salad sit for 5 minutes, then serve topped with toasted bread and additional cheese.  If needed, top off with an extra squirt of lemon juice and/or drizzle a little more olive oil.   

Result Update: Nothing is more awkward than when a sever "CAN'T light that banana!"

As promised, (drum roll please)...here is my recipe for "Fried Banana, Doused with Rum and Set on Fire!" --complete with pictures and notes to guide you to success!  

What I learned:

• Using firm, whole bananas is important to the integrity of this version.  Whole bananas are less likely to break down or loose moisture while deep frying, and the ratio is kept in favor of showcasing the banana vs the coating.
• Introducing rice flour and cornstarch produces a golden crispy coating surrounding a moist tender banana.  Baking powder and cold seltzer water react to create multiple puffy pockets when deep fried.
• Before serving, generously sprinkle with sugar, splash straight rum onto banana and plate, and light immediately.  Tilt plate and using a metal spoon, baste rum and sugar over banana until flames die.  Basting helps to slightly candy and crisp the fried batter, further intensifying flavors and texture.  

Ann Vu's "Fried Banana, Doused with Rum and Set on Fire!"

I personally think my batter coating has better color.

• Fried Banana, Doused with Rum and Set on Fire!   

This batter is quick to mix and easy to work with.  Surprisingly, batter holds up well when tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to 6 hours.

2 tablespoons rice flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup corn starch
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoon teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon banana or vanilla extract
1  teaspoon rum, brandy or cognac
1 ½ cups ICE COLD seltzer water or beer, more if needed
About 12 large bananas, ripe but still firm, peel and left whole 
1 quart vegetable oil, for deep frying as needed

To finish

2-3 teaspoons sugar

1-2 tablespoons dark rum, brandy or cognac per banana

long match or light to ignite

Sift together rice flour, all-purpose flour, corn starch, baking powder, 2 teaspoons of sugar and salt into large mixing bowl.

In measuring cup, measure 1½ cups ICE COLD seltzer water or beer, stir in extract and liquor.  Combine liquids into the flour mixture, gently stirring with wire whisk or large spoon until batter resembles a slightly lumpy pancake batter.   DO NOT OVERMIX!  Add more water if necessary (I did not).  For best results, cover and allow to rest in refrigerator for an hour.

In a large Dutch oven (or deep-fryer), pour in 2-3 inches of oil and heat over medium high heat until oil reaches 375 degrees.  The oil should be slightly bubbly, but not smoking.  Dip a whole banana into the tempura batter to coat completely.  Allow the excess batter to drip back into the bowl.  Carefully lower into hot oil, one at a time. 

Maintain proper heat (between 350-375 degrees) and deep fry for 2-3 minutes per batch.  Use a metal spoon to baste the top of the banana with hot oil, and/or flip each banana using a spider skimmer and cook until golden on all sides.  Remove fried banana and drain on paper towels to remove excess oil and transfer them onto the cooling rack.  Repeat until the rest of the bananas are used. 

To serve, line up your sugar, liquor and lighter to immediately strike flames.  Place 1-2 banana(s) on a heat proof plate.  Sprinkle each banana generously with sugar.  Pour a small amount of dark rum over bananas and some onto plate.  Immediately ignite to flame.   DO NOT heat the liquor first!   And remember, too much liquor is counter intuitive and will only make the fried banana soggy, and almost impossible to light.   Tilt the plate and with a metal spoon, baste bananas with rum and sugar until the flames die and alcohol is burned off. 
-Enjoy!

Nothing is more awkward than when a sever "CAN'T light that banana!"

There's one thing you should know about me.   Occasionally, I'll set off on covert missions to create and/or copy an “ultimate” recipe or dish.  Sometimes, it’s on a dare; other times, it’s inspired by a memory.  But usually, pursuit is spurred by random frustration that someone else has perfected one of my favorite things to eat while no one else seems to come close.  Throw in words, like “secret” or “best” and I’m launched!

Yes, I’m arrogant and stubborn enough to believe that with enough tries…I will crack the recipe’s secrets.  And so it goes …with as many times as it’ll take me, with all the questions I’ll have to ask …and for all the times my loved ones will have to endure repeats …my mission stops only when I finally get it right! 

Don’t laugh!  This time, my target is "Fried Banana Flambé!"  Specifically Dac Phuc Restaurant's fried bananas --coated with a crispy/slightly chewy rice flour batter, deep fried, sprinkled with rum and sugar, and brought to the table in flames!  As it approaches, you can smell the burnt sugar and hear the sizzle and crack.  Just as you think, “My God…the banana is on fire!” …flames suddenly disappear leaving the edges slightly scorched and texturally charred.  One bite and you know it's nothing like those oily hard crusted fritters other places serve.

I'm always tempted by promising versions offered in restaurants and by home cooks.  For example, hubby and I ordered fried bananas this evening from a different place downtown.  To our chagrin, we all experienced the longest awkward 5 minutes as the server repeatedly tried to light the banana on fire!  We blushed as she burned through all her matches and poured on more rum, but still no flames.  Even worse was how the failed banana tasted.

Hence, perfecting the Fried Banana is my new project and I promise, we will figure out how to either make it exactly and/or better!  This much I know and can taste:  whole bananas, rice flour, a little cornstarch and straight dark rum.   I'm also guessing hot oil, cold batter ...maybe seltzer water or baking soda.  As a baseline, I'm going to start with a store bought batter mix.  (Hell, I'd love it if it were that easy!).   Next, I'm applying my best guesses to create a worthy scratch recipe to share with you.   
--Test results will be posted above.

Do you remember your first?

Last night, my husband and I were invited to an impromptu dinner at our friends' new hillside home.  As expected from these two dynamic people, the evening was flawless and once again, our usually 5 hour meal went by in a flash.  

But I have a confession.  Amongst all the sensory beauty and comforts of their home, while feasting on the delicious lamb, chocolate fondue and wines …the one thing that really set my heart racing was when I passed by their stacks of cookbook on the kitchen counter.  No joke!  Like an art thief tempted by a Picasso, I could barely control myself.

Talking it out, I shared with them details of my very first…cookbook.  Going back to first grade, during a field trip at the Oakland Public Library was when I first picked up a hardbound copy of "Miss Leslie’s Directions for Cookery" –an 1851 classic.  I was six years old and just beginning to understand English, with no idea of how to cook or even how to turn on the stove.  None the less, I was completely fascinated by the author’s narration of recipes and cooking tips …so much so that I checked out the book, and have never returned it since.  That’s my second confession.

Indeed this hobby (aka, an incurable obsession with collecting cookbooks) has been a labor of love and evidence of my passion for defining foods and learning history.  That said, my private collection of international and multilingual cookbooks now nears 3000 with no intention of ceasing anytime soon.  I’ve purchased most books; some were gifts …and a few more have been “borrowed” through the years.  My last confession…I probably need therapy.

Welcome to my new blog!

Lemongrass Skirt Steak Salad, Cilantro Aioli Dressing and Fry Bread

Thai Basil Crab over Garlic Noodles

"My unique culinary point of view is reflective of today's global "exchange" of cultures, rituals, ingredients and cooking techniques. That said, I am in constant search of my favorite food experiences and I invite you to witness such process and sweet successes." --Ann Vu

Born in Vietnam and originally French educated, my youngest memories are of trips to Saigon’s open markets with the women in my family. We’re talking generations of old world divas whose lives revolved around planning and execution of the most epic eating experiences possible. Their dinner parities for international politicians, military officials, artists and authors were legendary. Center stage was “the family meals” shared with grandparents, and Ong Ngoai (my grandpa) was notorious for being a picky eater. To ensure success, a staff of personal chefs and village vendors were enlisted to share and/or steal recipes and ingredients promising to showcase heritage and culinary creativity.

By 1967, the gravity of war, economic and social upheaval was eminent. My mother left Vietnam, her family and life as we knew it and married an American officer. Bravely, we moved to the San Francisco Bay Area, a melting pot of different cultures. So that I would always know “my history”—my mother made authentic Asian foods which we commonly enjoyed along with European and All American favorites as a way of honoring where I came from and what we were all about. My mother also attended ESL classes where she met international friends from Japan, China, Mexico and Jamaica and they formed a weekly food club. Coming together to share treasured recipes and to experiment with different ingredients and cooking techniques—just like we had back in our village.

From that premise, my culinary point of view was developed and I continue to learn and share but now I do so with a more modern approach. Fortunate enough to have homes in Asia, America and Mexico, I hang out with local chefs, restaurateurs and home cooks to learn their different foods and signature dishes. My recipes and menus begin loosely based off of classic South East Asian foods, but my dishes have evolved given regional influences and perimeters of local ingredients. Basically, I take what’s familiar—such as tapas, pasta, grilled meats, puddings and pies…and I Asian fusion them! I also draw from popular restaurant chefs and demystify secrets for creating signature dishes, inspiring my own spin such as Thai Basil Crab and Garlic Noodles, Lemongrass Beef Salad in Fry Bread, Ginger Tofu &Veggie Fresh Rolls with Guacamole, and perfect Chocolate Haupia Pie!

Just as my cooking and entertaining emphasizes shared communal dining with family and friends, my vision for this blog is to simply have fun sharing.  Putting myself on here, I hope to help bridge cultural and culinary gaps as we study Asian classic dishes and experiment with global influences.

Enough said, let’s begin our extraordinary journey as we explore "The Food Exchange," my collection of original recipes.